Let me start by saying there is no doubt in my mind that Hedi Slimane is uber talented. Creative director, photographer, as well as acclaimed menswear designer, his credentials are impressive. He even shares a similar work path with Yves himself (both working under Dior at some point). I must admit, however, that Slimane’s subsequent re-branding of one of the most iconic fashion logos of all time struck me as more then a tad disrespectful. As a result, I will admit I went into viewing the collection with a slight bias.
YSL has always been synonymous with French classiness, but with a modern lack of stuffiness that makes it so chic. I applaud Slimane for the wide-brimmed hats, skinny pants, flowy balloon sleeved chiffon dresses, and a perfect amount of black. Definite Parisian chic. I can see Jerry Hall wearing one of the looks to an after party in Cannes with Mick Jagger circa 1970. It’s also easy to picture the kind of witchy-boho-rock-chic girl who will jump to wear such outfits today. (Cough, Kate Moss at Glastonbury.)
Overall, Slimane’s debut was more successful than I imagined. Although I felt the collection lacked cohesiveness (um, random buttoned fringe suede skirt?), I applaud him for staying loyal to the house’s founding principles-chiffon, tuxedo suits, see-through/peasant blouses, and bolero jackets. He resurrected what Saint Laurent did for hippie rock chicks in the seventies, an interesting, and more importantly, respectful start to the new world that is Saint Laurent Paris.
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